By: davidstipek (offline)  Thursday, 26 June 2014 @ 10:32 PM ICT (Read 3318 times)  

I have found that Stator coils are working fine. I was told that originally battery system for Crystal was a 12V/5Ah Battery. Since I am using a 12V/7Ah Battery I cannot create enough (or high enough amps to charge correctly.

Does this sound feasible?

I was told to get a Bridge-Rectifier for 7Ah. Or create one.

Stator is a 2 wire system yellow, White. Original Rectifier was a 4 wire: yellow=carging, white=lights, black=ground, red=12VDC.

If I build it would only be a 4 diode, Bridge Rectifier. It would not have any regulator, unless there is already a stand-alone rectifier available on the market.

I was told to use 1.5 amp diodes, can I go bigger will that hurt or help issue?

Bike is fine otherwise. I think I am going to redo the rear of bike and remove suspenion and fork. Make it a hard tail. Then I can move shift and Brake to rear mounting. Making it easier to ride, with dropped bars (Bobber style). As I am already in a forward leaning position and levers in forward position is almost knees hitting wrists.... if you can understand.

Last question here: to make spark hotter, since suzuki crystal has all ignition components in coil. Can I par. two coils so they each have one (Same) power and ground leads and utalize same HV Spark Plug cable?

Ride On
David

(I will try to take some new pictures next day or so.)


David

   

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By: Flying Squirrel (offline)  Friday, 27 June 2014 @ 03:32 PM ICT  

I don't think there is any difference between a 5ah and a 7ah in the real world except a 7ah holds more charge. As for the rectifier use an old model Honda CBR150 regulator about 600 baht, it has 4 wires. You need to do some connection research but.

Honda rectifiers are not renowned for their super reliability but it will do the job.

   

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By: Anonymous: Ashton ()  Saturday, 28 June 2014 @ 04:14 PM ICT  

If you do grab a CBR 150 rectifier then I can tell you the wiring, I've been messing around with my system for a while (the old CBR 150, the new one is a three phase rectifier).

As for your original stator having yellow for charging and white for lights, I'm sure you'll find this to be incorrect. White and Yellow are usually each end of the stator coil giving an AC current - the rectifier turns this to DC, then the regulator stops it from going above ~15v by dumping excess voltage (heat comes out its own heatsink and some through the stator itself).

Amperage of the battery is how much current it can give out, but doesn't necessarily define what is required for charging - as long as the rectifier is pumping-out a higher voltage than the battery is currently giving, it will charge the battery, so your larger battery should be okay.

An interesting thing I found with my CBR which may be related to your white wire for lights theory, is that my lighting system was "regulated" by the stator's yellow wire - I thought this meant that my lights were running on AC, but this was not quite the case, and I soon worked-it out after switching all my lights to DC from the battery, as my battery drained faster.

It's a bit like a PWM system, though a bit more retro, where the rectifier only allows current to flow one direction, so by running the lights off the yellow wire from my stator, it only allowed the lights to be on "half the time." This is why the lights flicker a bit when idle, but are fully bright above 2,000RPM or so - I think this is what's in your bike as well.

By: davidstipek (offline)  Sunday, 29 June 2014 @ 01:58 AM ICT  

Quote by: Ashton

If you do grab a CBR 150 rectifier then I can tell you the wiring, I've been messing around with my system for a while (the old CBR 150, the new one is a three phase rectifier).

As for your original stator having yellow for charging and white for lights, I'm sure you'll find this to be incorrect. White and Yellow are usually each end of the stator coil giving an AC current - the rectifier turns this to DC, then the regulator stops it from going above ~15v by dumping excess voltage (heat comes out its own heatsink and some through the stator itself).

Amperage of the battery is how much current it can give out, but doesn't necessarily define what is required for charging - as long as the rectifier is pumping-out a higher voltage than the battery is currently giving, it will charge the battery, so your larger battery should be okay.

An interesting thing I found with my CBR which may be related to your white wire for lights theory, is that my lighting system was "regulated" by the stator's yellow wire - I thought this meant that my lights were running on AC, but this was not quite the case, and I soon worked-it out after switching all my lights to DC from the battery, as my battery drained faster.

It's a bit like a PWM system, though a bit more retro, where the rectifier only allows current to flow one direction, so by running the lights off the yellow wire from my stator, it only allowed the lights to be on "half the time." This is why the lights flicker a bit when idle, but are fully bright above 2,000RPM or so - I think this is what's in your bike as well.



Ashton / Flying squirrel...

Thanks for your replies...

I know that Mag Lighting coil has these connections: Black=Ground, White=lighting/rectifier, Yellow=rectifier.

Coil is wired with 2 coils. End of one coil is black=ground, at other end of #1 coil is white wire, also connects to #2 coil at it end is yellow wire. Tracing out wires I found white lead to light power switch connected to white rectifier lead.

I think after last couple days I narrowed issue a bit. If I charge battery to 14.5VDC as it shuts off there and don't touch bike Voltage will remain the same... no drain issue. But if I start bike, it drops to 10.8 - 11.5VDC. indicating the rest is being dropped, possibly by regulator. No matter how far I ride or how long voltage does not seem to get above 11.8VDC Like its being regulated to remain there.

This is why I asked about a rectifier for a bigger system. If I have to build one no issue, but I would need to find a regulator for a bigger bike to increase where power/voltage is being dumped to a higher voltage level. Understand now a little more of whats going on??

Ride On
David


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By: davidstipek (offline)  Sunday, 29 June 2014 @ 08:09 PM ICT  

Quote by: Flying Squirrel

Here is a diagnostic flow chart.

<a href="http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf" rel="nofollow">www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf</a>



FS...

(Thanks for chart... I have already...)

If I use a full wave rectifier without a regulator, I get 11.5VDC at idle. Then when I take above 2500 rpm I get 12-14.8VDC. Issue here is why I do not want to use full wave rectifier is I have no regulation of voltage and I get fluctuation in delivered voltage. Always above 12VDC when riding but I get battery heat.

I have been told that if I use a Bridge Rectifier (4 Diodes) I will get a cleaner and Stable Voltage output, 14-14.8VDC.

In first message I asked what the differences caused by different size Diodes: Example .75 to a 1.5 or from a 1.5 to a 2.0 But now if I build I will need a regulator. Preferrably from a bigger Bike So Voltage would be for a Higher Ah Battery. As again going from a 12VDC/5Ah to a 12VDC/10Ah.

Right now rectifier is dumping voltage at 11.5VDC, I need to dump at 14-14.8VDC I have different size Diodes I have built 2 Bridge Rectifiers. One with 1.5 Diodes and the other with 2.0 Diodes. I need to determine which will be better suited for this application. Then add a stand-alone regulator and how to connect to Rectifier.
Ride On
David


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By: Flying Squirrel (offline)  Monday, 30 June 2014 @ 09:11 AM ICT  

Why not buy a B600-ish Honda regulator unit and try it before you reinvent the wheel? That way if the stator puts out enough voltage you will get what you need.

In a small way I am also interested how you can ride around on a two stroke at less than 2500 rpm. It would appear if you ride at 3000 you will get enough voltage.

   

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By: Anonymous: davidstipek ()  Wednesday, 27 August 2014 @ 01:03 AM ICT  

Quote by: Flying Squirrel

Why not buy a B600-ish Honda regulator unit and try it before you reinvent the wheel? That way if the stator puts out enough voltage you will get what you need.

In a small way I am also interested how you can ride around on a two stroke at less than 2500 rpm. It would appear if you ride at 3000 you will get enough voltage.



Haha...
At 2500 I am getting 25-30mph with present final gearing (17:35) 2nd gear third I need to go to about 3300-3500. I geared bike to ride Chiang Mai to Nonthaburi Ride On Primarly wanted to do a Highway Bike and get best mileage I could. Wanted to see how far I could go on Tank of 11.8 Liters... Tried to attach a Picture, Bike rides better since I extended Aquia forks 6". Head post already at 37 degree rake so now Tank looks higher and Next step is to find 16"x4" chrome rim (36 spoke) to respoke spare NSR150 rear hub too. than my spare 140x70x16 tire with 37T sprocket will get me about where I want to be. Fatter Tire look and and everybody scratching thier head wondering what this is. I have been told to take right and left engine covers to Machine shop and get the Suzuki Jet Cooled machine off.. Then have HD engraved in its place... Haha! I don't think Harley would like that... Even the 250cc Sprint they made was a 4T engine!
Hint: 2 cycle on can cut off removable tube and weld flush. Then find Yamaha 100 can cut off entry end and open exit to 1.25". Slide down over suzuki can until 3" from hitting ends and weld in place. Take 3 of the stainless scrubers your wife has at kitchen sink and stuff on opening to fill void. I then cut a 4" round by 1.5" high temp spong to cover this and added a wire mesh to hold everything in Place. This exhaust mod (Remember I am using Suzuki 120 Exhaust system... It is 1 1/8 internal dimention compared to the original exhaust of 7/8' OD) increased torque lowend and midrange now 2nd gear has a useable range up to 6800-7200 rpm! Not a Drag bike by any means... ok? but these Mods did increase Mileage! How about 680 Kms using 3 liters of 95 octane Benzine.... It also took the exhaust noise to a deeper Baretone level!! Much more fitting of the look! At inspection Post they did emmissions twice because I was showing less then 1/2 what original Stock Levels were...

I'm happyRide On " now if Thailand would let us show Bike shops how to do all this... Many Families could afford the simple Engine/exhaust Mods I did and not have to "Can" the old 2 Cycle Bike!

By: davidstipek (offline)  Thursday, 11 September 2014 @ 01:46 AM ICT  

Quote by: davidstipek

Quote by: Flying Squirrel

Why not buy a B600-ish Honda regulator unit and try it before you reinvent the wheel? That way if the stator puts out enough voltage you will get what you need.

In a small way I am also interested how you can ride around on a two stroke at less than 2500 rpm. It would appear if you ride at 3000 you will get enough voltage.



Haha...
At 2500 I am getting 25-30mph with present final gearing (17:35) 2nd gear third I need to go to about 3300-3500. I geared bike to ride Chiang Mai to Nonthaburi Ride On Primarly wanted to do a Highway Bike and get best mileage I could. Wanted to see how far I could go on Tank of 11.8 Liters... Tried to attach a Picture, Bike rides better since I extended Aquia forks 6". Head post already at 37 degree rake so now Tank looks higher and Next step is to find 16"x4" chrome rim (36 spoke) to respoke spare NSR150 rear hub too. than my spare 140x70x16 tire with 37T sprocket will get me about where I want to be. Fatter Tire look and and everybody scratching thier head wondering what this is. I have been told to take right and left engine covers to Machine shop and get the Suzuki Jet Cooled machine off.. Then have HD engraved in its place... Haha! I don't think Harley would like that... Even the 250cc Sprint they made was a 4T engine!
Hint: 2 cycle on can cut off removable tube and weld flush. Then find Yamaha 100 can cut off entry end and open exit to 1.25". Slide down over suzuki can until 3" from hitting ends and weld in place. Take 3 of the stainless scrubers your wife has at kitchen sink and stuff on opening to fill void. I then cut a 4" round by 1.5" high temp spong to cover this and added a wire mesh to hold everything in Place. This exhaust mod (Remember I am using Suzuki 120 Exhaust system... It is 1 1/8 internal dimention compared to the original exhaust of 7/8' OD) increased torque lowend and midrange now 2nd gear has a useable range up to 6800-7200 rpm! Not a Drag bike by any means... ok? but these Mods did increase Mileage! How about 680 Kms using 3 liters of 95 octane Benzine.... It also took the exhaust noise to a deeper Baretone level!! Much more fitting of the look! At inspection Post they did emmissions twice because I was showing less then 1/2 what original Stock Levels were...

I'm happyRide On " now if Thailand would let us show Bike shops how to do all this... Many Families could afford the simple Engine/exhaust Mods I did and not have to "Can" the old 2 Cycle Bike!


Here are some updated Pictures for everyone

Click on image to downloadClick on image to downloadClick on image to download


David

   

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